2006 Greece

Getting There
The entire 2-week trip – including the cost, which was not insignificant – was passing before my eyes. Due to weather in the New York area (it doesn’t matter what kind of weather; any weather will do it - in this case it was a drop or two of rain), our flight to Newark was delayed by over 2 hours, which would cause us to miss our connection to Frankfort, along with our subsequent flights to Paris and then Athens. Our options? Go ahead and begin missing connections or wait until tomorrow. This latter one wasn’t really an option because we would then miss the beginning of the tour and have to hook up with the group in faraway (from Athens) Kalambaka. God knows how we’d manage that.

So we chose the first option and decided to beg for mercy to anyone wearing a Continental uniform. The third try did it. A lady at the Customer Service Desk spent over an hour with our complicated itinerary and made it sensible and doable. We went straight from Newark to Paris, bypassing Frankfort altogether, and then on to Athens. Not only did this work, it even did so for our luggage as well!

We met our Tour Director, Gordon Spicer upon checking into the Acropolis Select Hotel. Ate moussaka for dinner at God’s Restaurant. Really.

Athens
The city tour of Athens was pretty good. We saw the Panathenic Stadium, used for the first modern Olympic games in 1896, as well as for the 2004 Games’ Marathon finish. We saw the ancient Theater of Dionysis (the god of wine) at the base of the Acropolis, and of course the Acropolis itself.

Acropolis means hill-city, and many ancient Greek cities have them. But when we talk about The Acropolis, we’re talking about the one in Athens. At the top are a few temples in various states of repair, the most famous being the Parthenon. The size and scale of the Parthenon are amazing. It had survived intact for 2,000 years, until bombing in a war between Turkey and Italy caused the roof to collapse. The state of disrepair actually seems to add to its allure. There is a beautiful view of all of Athens from the Acropolis as well. We had seen the top and the Parthenon all lit up the night before.

Why did the Ancient Greeks build so many ruins? This actual query is to be the title of Gordon’s someday-to-be-written book. Even after 37 years of being a tour director, he never ceases to be amazed at the people who take these tours. He’s already assured us that we’ll be in the book as well. Although he’s funny at times, Gordon does seem efficient and competent so far.

It is a long bus ride from Athens in the south to Kalambaka in the north. Along the way we passed Marathon, where the first one took place, the plains of Thessaly, featuring miles of cotton, mountains galore, etc. Once in Kalambaka, Debbie and I dined with Margaret and Peter from the UK and Bernie and Linda from Australia.

Meteora
Meteora is the site of several monasteries near Kalambaka. These Orthodox monasteries are perched atop huge rocks in unfathomable ways. Looking up at them from town, my initial thought was that we could never, in a bazillion years, drive to anywhere near them, but drive near to them we did, and in a bus no less. We toured the Varlaam and Bapbapac monasteries and also stopped at a third one. The views were great from up there; it was not unlike Yosemite. This and other things were good topics of conversation with our new friends from California, Jack and Glorina. Although it was still called a monastery, Bapbapac was actually a nunnery. One of the nuns made sure that all the women who entered were wearing skirts or dresses covering the knees; a wrap could be borrowed if necessary. No one tried to sneak by her for fear of getting slapped with a ruler.

Of course the best part of today’s visit was that I was able to tell anyone who’d listen about my friend who actually joined one of these monasteries. You know, the one that was so strict that the monks were only allowed to speak two words every ten years. After ten years of extremely hard, backbreaking work, my friend went to the head monk and exclaimed, “Hard work.” The head monk replied, “OK. We will note your comments. Now go back to work.” After another ten years of toil, my friend said, “I’m tired.” The head monk replied, “Noted. Now get back to work.” After yet another 10 years, my friend said, “I quit.” The head monk replied, “I’m not surprised. You’ve done nothing but complain for thirty years.

After the monasteries, it was on to Delphi, back in the southern part of Greece. So far we seem to have had moussaka and a Greek salad, complete with a liter of olive oil, every day of the trip.

Delphi
The modern village of Delphi is very nice. Much of the town has a great view of the gulf of Corinth. The Delphi archeological site is most beautiful and serene. Debbie and I walked a long way from the area of Apollo’s Temple to see the famous three columns of the rotunda. We were the only ones there, and it was very quiet and peaceful. We could see why the area had religious significance for the ancient Greeks.

The Oracle of Delphi was actually a series of women who told fortunes for the ancient Greeks; anyone up to and including kings. Legend has it that the Oracle would hear the request and then enter the nearby cave for inspiration before returning to tell the fortune. It is now believed that the Oracles experienced hallucinations resulting from gasses within the cave.

“Calimara” means “good morning” in Greek. I must remember not to wish anyone “calamari”, which means squid. We ate some calamari for lunch at a nice place on a typical Mediterranean beach. Then it was across the bridge to the Peloponnesian peninsula. There are mountains everywhere in Greece. It seems a bit like California in this way, and unfortunately it also has the smog, especially in the south. By evening we made it to Olympia to stay at the Olympia Palace. It’s the nicest of the hotels we’ve been at. The food and location were great, and it’s just a short walk to the Olympic site.

Olympia
This is the place where it all began in 776 B.C. The ancient games were held every four years for over a millennium. Pope/Roman Emperor Theodosius I put an end to them in 394 A.D. I find it interesting that the Greeks kept track of the years by the Olympiad along with the name of the winner of the sprint from that year. As we walked through the awesome tunnel and into the original stadium, I couldn’t help but get some goose bumps. Of course I had to take a run back and forth on the approximately 200-meter course. Other folks eventually got the idea to do so too. By mutual consent, we all decided not to run naked like the Greeks did.

Nearby is the ruins of the temple to Olympian Zeus, which contained one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, a giant gold and marble statue of Zeus. It was destroyed by the same Emperor Theodosius I who put an end to the games. What a guy.

Our tours of these places is falling into a pattern set by Gordon: get an early wake-up call, go to breakfast early, get the luggage ready and out of the room early, and get on with the site-seeing early. Although there is some grumbling, everyone realizes that getting to these sites early is extremely important. We are beating all the huge crowds that are just beginning to arrive in caravans of tour busses just as we are leaving. The crowds, not to mention the heat, must be really awful in the summer. Speaking of heat, we’ve had wonderful weather: the days have been sunny and the temperatures have ranged from about 45 to 50 at night to 65 to 70 during the days. Yes, this is the time to go.

We can’t help but believe that the ancient Greeks, or at least the Romans who followed, had better plumbing than the modern Greeks do. Most toilets are somewhat functional, except for a few places where they are literally just a hole in the ground. The hotel showers are a topic of conversation for everyone though. So small that one can’t turn around; made so that the water floods into and all over the tiny bathroom; shower curtains that wind up sticking to your body; I could go on and on.

Epidaurus and Nafplia
We toured the ancient theater of Epidaurus, which seats 14,000, has fantastic acoustics, and is still used to this day.

The city of Nafplia was our next destination. It is a beautiful town along the sea: very Mediterranean, and a nice place to walk. We ate dinner at a nice outdoor restaurant in an alley along with Peter and Margaret. Glorina and Jack were nearby as well.

Mycenae and Corinth
The Mycenae archeological site is hundreds of years older than the others we’ve seen. It’s famous as the home of Agamemnon who, according to the Iliad, led the Greeks in the Trojan War around 1100 B.C. Parts of the site are older still, and much is still being excavated. We saw the famous Lion’s Gate (amongst the 18-foot wide city walls) and the Beehive tomb. Unfortunately we had a foggy day and couldn’t see much of the surrounding scenery from the Mycenaean acropolis, which we were told was outstanding. Maybe we’ll see it next time we’re around.

We subsequently drove on to Corinth for a brief stop. This is the place where Paul gave his letters to the Corinthians. He obviously didn’t trust the Greek Postal Service.

Athens
Once back in Athens, Jack and Glorina, Bill and Jenny from Sydney, Shirley and Ray from Fort Worth, and the two of us all trekked over to the Benaki Museum. A mixture of art and artifacts were there for the viewing. We walked back through the Plaka district and stopped for dinner at a nice outdoor café on a square.

Cape Sounion
Since there was nothing better to do in the morning before the cruise, we took an optional side trip to Cape Sounion. There we saw Poseidon’s Temple, which commands a spectacular panoramic view of the Aegean and Ionian Seas.

Cruisin’
That first week sure had been busy – on the go every day. The theory was that once we got on the cruise ship that we’d be able to finally relax in the lap of luxury and high living. Sure, we knew that the MS Perla wasn’t going to be newest and fanciest ship in the fleet, but we went with it because it was priced right through Cosmos, and because it had a great itinerary.

First the good news. The Perla’s food was excellent. We weren’t enamored with the buffet, but the food in the main dining room was great. The ship’s entertainment was also good. The five or six singers and dancers were the same every night except for the occasional magic show, and that was good as well. The best part was that we wouldn’t need to pack and unpack every day; we could unpack and stay put for the week.

The bad news begins with, unpack to where? Our stateroom was literally much smaller than our bedroom closet in our last house. There were a couple tiny drawers and an itsy bitsy closet. The walls were paper thin, so that we could hear everything going on in the three adjacent rooms. My 18-inch bed was against the wall, so that I was only inches away from the guy in the room next to us, and he snored like a grizzly bear. I used earplugs. Modern Greek plumbing being as it is, bad smells emitting from the bathroom drains had Debbie stuffing towels into all of them. I was half expecting us to begin having Oracle-like hallucinations. And leave it to the Greeks to come up with one-sided toilet paper; heaven help you if you use the rough side….

So although we weren’t expecting the Ritz, the ship was still below our expectations. In spite of all this, we were having a wonderful time. This was mostly because we were spending so much time with all our new Cosmos friends. 28 of the original 42 had opted for continuing on with the cruise, and we were almost like a family now; a family with Father Goose, Gordon. A few of these folks that we became very good friends with, besides those already mentioned, include Becky from B.C., Valda from Rotorua, N.Z., Jeff from Oakland, C.J. and Lay Chen from Malaysia, Gail and Joanne from near Brisbane, Joan from Canberra, and (Panama) Jack, along with Sandy and Al from Florida.

“Hit Di Road Jack!” As good as the entertainment was, these Eastern Europeans were not quite Ray Charles’ material. Later one of them gave Greek dancing lessons: “Step, step behind, keek; step, step behind, keek.” We did only some dancing, but the Greek music was just as our old friend Linda Rafalski had described: “The music starts slowly, and then goes faster and faster, as does the dancing. It ends at its fastest, and then everyone yells OPA! Then the next piece begins slowly, goes faster and faster, and everyone yells OPA! Then the next piece begins slowly… and so on.”

To get from Athens to Istanbul, we cruised through the night and much of the next day. We had hoped to arrive in the afternoon in time to get to the Grand Bazaar. Unfortunately for some reason the Turkish government held us from entering the Dardenells straights for several hours and we didn’t arrive until evening.

Istanbul
Arriving after dark, there wasn’t time to see or do much. We took a short walk before discovering that the laser show we were looking for was best seen from the deck of the ship. We managed to get back in time to catch part of it. The show was part of the celebration for the next day’s Turkey Independence Day celebration.

The following morning I got out for a run in which I made an attempt to run from Europe, across a bridge to Asia. The bridge turned out to be further away than it looked, and I had to turn back as I was running out of time. I have never seen so many flags. Big ones and little ones were on display everywhere for the holiday.

Our all-day city tour took us to the Blue Mosque, one of Islam’s largest and most impressive, the Aya Sofia museum, once a huge Christian cathedral dating from the Byzantine Empire and later converted to a mosque, and finally Topkapi Palace, which, along with one piece of our furniture, dates from the Ottoman Empire. Topkapi provides great views of Istanbul, along with relics of Mohammed himself. The jewels on display, including an 86 karat diamond and some equally huge emeralds, put Great Britain’s Crown Jewels to shame.

Turkey has a secular government, and although well over 90% Islamic, is not fundamentally so like several other countries. Our guide covered her head whilst in the Blue Mosque, but explained that even this was optional. About halfway through the day we were walking around when we heard the noon call to prayer blasted from the Blue Mosque’s minarets. It was all pretty exotic stuff.

Mykonos
When you imagine a Greek Island, Mykonos is what you think of. All the houses and other buildings, even the 400 or so churches, are painted white, and the whitewashing must be done a couple times a year. Only some of the trim may contain bits of color. Even the space between the stones on the walkways is white. We strolled through town, stopping at churches, the hill-top windmills, and for the town’s famous pelican (the one that tried to swallow Gail, whole) before the rain began. Glorina, Jack, Debbie and I made it under an awning to wait it out. Soon it was a storm of biblical proportions. We made a run for it when it abated a bit. Our shoes were soaked from having to step through the flooded areas of the streets.

So much for Mykonos. At least we had had a bit of time there to enjoy it.

Patmos
Yet another of the picturesque Greek Islands is Patmos. We took in some of the scenery before heading to the Cave of the Apocalypse, where John wrote the book of Revelation. The cave is part of an Orthodox Monestary, and a liturgy was taking place at the time, so we had to be quiet and respectful for a change. We did see the large crack in the ceiling that is traditionally thought to have been caused by either God, an earthquake, or both, inspiring the book. I think if I was sitting there and an earthquake caused a crack like that, I’d have a Revelation too.

Kusadasi and Ephesus
After just a few hours on Patmos, we sailed for Kusadasi, on the mainland of Turkey, arriving mid-afternoon. Nearby is the ancient Roman city of Ephesus. The size and scale were enormous; the place must have rivaled Rome itself in its day. We saw a theater similar to the others we’ve been to, a library, a brothel, and everyone’s favorite, the toilets, which still looked usable. Saint Paul preached and wrote (the book of Ephesians) here as well.

Later we went to the Kusadasi bazaar where we were physically pulled into every shop. We wound up bargaining for some leather jackets, but in the end said no because Debbie’s didn’t fit, and I was too afraid of being swindled even though the price seemed great.

Rhodes
Rhodes is a large island, and we spent the day there. In the morning we hopped on a bus and toured the town of Lindos, a beautiful little town along the Mediterranean. It’s been continuously inhabited for over 3,000 years. The cobblestone steps were so treacherous and slippery that Debbie and many of the others turned back from the trip to the town’s acropolis. Who thought those cobblestones would be a good idea? Could it be one of the Greek master plumbers? Though smaller, this acropolis is not unlike the one in Athens, and it did have wonderful views.

There was another heavy rainstorm, but in the afternoon we walked over to Rhodes Old Town, a medieval walled city within the larger Rhodes city proper. What a great place – it was just like being at a permanent Renaissance or Middle Ages fair. It was also a bit like Prague. The town’s port also once contained the Colossus of Rhodes, a huge statue to welcome incoming ships and another of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

Debbie and I managed to get extremely lost and became a bit frightened that we wouldn’t make it back to the ship before it sailed away. A little old local woman figured out that we were off track and pointed the way, and we made it in time.

Crete
This would be our final pile of rocks: the palace of Knossis. It is an entire city contained within a single palace, which contained over 1,600 rooms. These rocks were part of the oldest civilization we’d seen yet, that of the Minoan Empire of 4,000 years ago. This empire rivaled that of the Egyptians.

In theory the collapse of the Minoan empire was precipitated by the largest tsunami in recorded history caused by the 1700 B.C. Santorini volcano. The disaster to the Minoans of Crete as well as the civilization on Santorini itself is probably the source of the legend of Atlantis.

Santorini
We only had a few hours in the afternoon and evening to see this spectacular island. It was certainly the most beautiful of any we’d seen, and that is saying something. The scale of what’s left from the volcano is enormous, and the town is perched high up on the rim. After tendering over to the island, we took a cable car to the top. What a view! Along with Glorina and Jack, we walked for several miles along the rim. The sunset was great from up there.

Athens
Yes, we were back to the Acropolis Select for the third time. Time to say goodbye to Gordon, who would soon be married in London. All agreed that he did a great job to enable us to have a wonderful holiday.

Would we relax and brace ourselves for the next day’s long arduous trip? Naaah! Even though we were tired, several of us (Jenny, Bill, Glorina, Jack, C.J., Ley Chen, Becky, Joan and Debbie and I) made our way to the National Archeological Museum via the metro. It was by far the best museum we’d seen. There was the bronze statue of Poseiden, now thought to be Zeus, the golden death mask of Agamemnon and many other treasures. After lunch at a sidewalk café, we walked the long road back. Along the way we ventured through a flea market (it was very similar to the ones in America), a meat market with entire carcasses hanging around, and a fish market. We also walked around the ancient agora, a market place dating from the golden age of Greece. Turned out that I had lied about no more rocks and ruins.

By the time we arrived back at the hotel, Debbie had had it. She had succumbed to the cold/flu virus that had been going around. We ate dinner at God’s again and said goodbye to all our friends. We’ll miss them, one and all, for the trip was very much enriched by the experience of having them with us.

2006 Dan in Iberia (Madrid, Lisbon)

It was the very second after they closed the door and announced that cell phones were to be shut off that I had my panic attack. It was Sunday night and I would arrive in Madrid on Monday morning. Yet I had made the hotel reservation for Sunday night, checking out on Tuesday. I really had only needed one night (Monday), and I was worried that they would cancel my whole reservation when I failed to show up on Sunday. I snuck my phone out and clandestinely called Debbie, leaving her a message to contact the hotel. She did, and all was ok there on Monday morning. Very very modern hotel with thin tv, fancy lighting, computer and spray-all-over shower. 

The second panic attack occurred while I was unpacking. I forgot my electrical adapter! This could be very bad - I only have a couple hours of battery life in my laptop and would need far more than that. I asked at the hotel lobby where I could get one, and they suggested a long walk to a Best Buy type store. No luck. The store guy suggested this shopping mall. More long walking, still no luck. Finally, back at the hotel, they arranged for a cab to get me to a large kmart type store (Hipercor), where I finally did get my adapter. 

Now that most of the day was gone, I had little time for sightseeing. I learned to take a bus and two subway trains to get to the city center. It was pretty neat down there with lots of shopping and restaurants. I didn't really get to see much that was historic or cultural however; just typical European city life. Unlike other parts of Europe, relatively few Spaniards speak English. This provides many cultural experiences in and of itself. 

There were no major problems with work, and I made it from Madrid to Lisbon with no major mishaps. Except of course for the problem of using ATMs. I tried 5 different machines in Madrid before they put me on the fraud list and called Debbie to tell on me. They were not allowing the transactions in the first place because Spain is a fraud nightmare for them. Debbie straightened them out. There were also some connectivity problems that kept me up on Tuesday night. 

I spent the day on Wednesday doing a full day tour of Lisbon and the surrounding area. Portugal is really beautiful, and there is certainly more to see. Today I saw recreations of: 

the Golden Gate Bridge (the Portuguese version is called the “Bridge 25th of April”), the Rio De Janeiro statue of Christ, and the palace of Versailles. All were actually pretty impressive, generally built by the same folks who built the originals. There was lots more as well. 

 · The famous Tower of Belem: a castle on the river to guard the city. It’s sort of symbolic of Portugal. · The modern monument dedicated to Portuguese maritime discoveries. The name says it all. 

· Mosteiro dos Jeronimos: a famous old monastery and cathedral in Belem, and an excellent example of Manueline architecture. I’m not sure I can describe this style, but I may know it now when I see it. Of course it only exists on Portugal. 

· The Coach Museum. The Portuguese are justifiably proud to have the finest coach museum in the world. Don’t ever settle for one of those lesser coach museums; this one is truly the best. By the way, it’s coach as in a buggy pulled by horses, not a sports team chief. 

· Port wine tasting (a tablespoon) and a taste of Belem pastry – pudding in a puff pastry shell. Yum. 

· A walk through the Alfama barrio. It’s a neighborhood that’s famous for its narrow streets and alleys. After a very long walk to the hotel and back again during lunch, I continued on, and saw: 

· The palace of Queluz. It’s the Versailles of Portugal. I kept wondering if they call the building in the Paris area the “Queluz of France”. This one really was very impressive as well, though. Even the gardens reminded me of the real thing. 

· The town of Sintra. It’s a medieval town in the hills. It’s very picturesque, but I didn’t do so well with my photos there. I couldn’t even find the palace on the hill. But it was a neat place anyway. 

· A couple stops along the Atlantic coast, one to see the ocean battering some rocks and the other to the town of Estoril, where there is some tourist activity and a casino. 

 That’s about it. Did I mention that it was a “full” day? My day of work in Lisbon was busy, but I made it through. The client office is in a set of ultra-modern buildings in a different part of Lisbon. More to see if I ever come back. Here’s hoping that I do.

2006 Dan in Central Europe (Budapest, Prague, Bucharest)

Dan’s Trip to Central Europe – July, 2006

Budapest
There was the usual confusion and disorientation that occurs when one travels overnight. This resulted in me almost missing my connection from Amsterdam to Budapest after I stood for too long in the wrong line for a boarding pass. But I made it to my very nice hotel room overlooking the Danube.

The Danube, by the way, isn’t entirely blue. It’s more of a slate gray. Also from my window I can see Castle Hill, including the Royal Palace, the famous Chain Bridge, part of Gelert Hill, and other parts of Buda. Hilly Buda is on the west side of the river, while flat Pest, where I’m located, is on the east. I can remember this because of a trick that Debbie told to me. Buda-Pest reads the way it does on a map: Buda on the left and Pest on the right, with the north-south Danube in between.

Debbie and I had fun trying to communicate with each other for free over the internet, using Skype. We’ve still got some kinks to work out, but we did manage to talk.

My work schedule appears to be very busy; I don’t think I’ll have very much time for sightseeing other than a few hours on Saturday and all day Sunday. As an effort towards making the most of this, I took a long 2+ hour walk to see the sights. I started by walking across the famous 1840’s era Chain Bridge, which had entertainment and other outdoor festivities at both ends. Heading north along the river, I had a great view of the Parliament Building, famous for its gothic style. I also went onto Margaret Island, a large island in the Danube, connected to both banks by a bridge. There’s a running track all the way around the island, so I’ll be spending at least a few of my mornings there.

For my morning run I managed to get back to Margaret Island where I did two circuits. The nice soft rubberized track is there for almost the entire circumference, which is a bit more than 3 miles. It’s a few miles to get there and back, and it was getting warm, but what a nice run it was.

My all-day Sunday sightseeing began with a walk across the Elizabeth Bridge and then up, up, up Gellert Hill. There are many paths, but they all seem to lead to the top, and they’re all steep. At the top is the Citadella, or Citadel, a fortress built during the 1848-1849 War of Independence. Also at the top is the Liberation Monument, a statue commemorating liberation from the Soviets. Budapest abounds in statues; there are probably more of them than people here. I’m mostly just kidding, but this one is queen of them all. You can see her from everywhere in the city and she’s huge. The views from the citadel are also the best around. I explored a bit, and then headed down the opposite side.

At the base of the hill on that opposite side is the Gellert Hotel, which includes a spa and famous baths. Although it was very hot, and I could have used one, I wasn’t sure of the clothing requirements, and therefore didn’t partake. I did see the outdoor pools, where bathing suits were, I noticed, indeed required.

I then walked around Gellert Hill and over to, and up Castle Hill. Did I mention that it was hot? This was about the time that Debbie would start calling it a Death March. I somehow managed to stay vertical, and spent a few hours exploring the shops and architecture at the top. There are all sorts of churches and museums. I certainly could have spent more time there, but it was time to go over to see the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace. The Royal Palace, aka Buda Castle, is very impressive. It was partially destroyed during World War II, but has been mostly restored. It’s humongous – took me a whole week to walk around the dang thing.

Budapest is an incredibly beautiful city. It’s almost hard to believe that my father’s family is from here, with some possibly still around. “Your name is Hungarian, no?” Every group I met with had at least one person ask me about my background. They all seemed interested to hear about my family. I only wish I could have told them more.

I did get to try some traditional Hungarian foods: Chicken Paprikas (not too different than Debbie’s, except maybe a bit spicier), Goulash, and of course lots of bakery.

Work was even busier than I had expected, so there would be no more sightseeing in Budapest. I did manage to spend the second to last evening at the Spoon Café, which is a boat more or less permanently moored in the Danube. Two of my clients, Gabor Barta and Krisztian Molnar took me there. It was a beautiful setting as the sun set in the Buda hills and the Buda Castle and Chain Bridge lights came on as darkness enveloped us. Pretty good Hungarian food there too.

Somehow I couldn’t help but notice: the Hungarian women I worked with were extremely beautiful. Since Debbie may read this, I’ll try not to notice such things in Prague. Yes, Budapest was great – I only wish I had had more time there. Now on to Prague.


Prague
Work has been so busy that as of my first couple of days, I haven’t seen much of Prague at all. I did get to see some of it during the rides to and from work, and on my morning run. But not much. This weekend will be different; I plan to see a lot.

I did have an interesting cultural experience. Public transportation is always a cultural experience for me, and Prague turns out to be no different. While I was able to walk, albeit a long walk, to work in Budapest, it’s much too far to walk in Prague. Taxis are a bit of a pain too, so I resolved to take the tram, which is a slow rapid transit type of thing. After asking a bazillion questions (where do I catch it, which one, what direction, how do I buy a ticket, how do I stamp it, etc), I somehow got everything right (at least the first time) and got to work ok.

I FINALLY got caught up with work, just in time for the weekend. Czech this out: I worked with Ludvik Cermak (from Pilsen by the way, and he pronounced it, “Chermock”), I’ve been eating livance, bread dumplings with roast duck and cabbage, bread dumplings with weiner schnitzel and stew, and so on. Didn’t like that pun about czeching it out? OK – no more. I should note, however, that in the news here, there was a Czech Scientist and an American Scientist studying bears in Alaska. A whole family of bears came upon them and ate them completely up. Authorities tracked the bears down and killed them. Then they opened up the female bear up, and found the American still alive inside. Of course he said, “The Czech’s in the male.” Sorry, I lied about the puns.

It was bound to happen. After about 19 miles of being mostly lost and running on mostly cobblestone streets and sidewalks, I was in my final mile nearing the hotel, and crash! Yes, I tripped on a cobblestone. No, I didn’t hurt myself – I landed mostly on my hands. My biggest concern was whether anyone saw me. As I was running, I couldn’t help but observe that whereas Budapest seemed to have more statues than people, Prague seems to have more castles than people.

Some musical pieces seem to describe places very well: think of Appalachian Spring by Copland, the New World Symphony by Dvorak and the Hungarian Dances by Brahms. But none are better than the Moldau by Smetana. When I hear this music, I can feel in my bones that I’m in Prague. Each time I turn on the TV here, that music is playing as part of the hotel channel, which is just an ad for the establishment here. But I always let it play for a while – I never tire of it, and it really gets me in that “Pragean” mood.

Moldau, by the way, is the English/German way of saying the name of the river that runs through Prague. The Czechs call it Vltava. I can’t for the life of me figure out how they get from an English word from these Czech spellings. Wenceslas Square is Vaclavske Namesti, Charles Bridge is Karluv Most, and of course Old Town Square is Staromestske Namesti. Either Czechs can’t spell, or we can’t pronounce these places. Maybe both.

One would hope that with place names such as those, that at least street signs would be helpful. They are, unfortunately, non-existent. And, according to Czech law, there aren’t any streets at all that go straight. I think I saw some tourists that were still lost from the 12th century. I myself got as lost as I’ve been for many years during this morning’s run. But I couldn’t think of any better place on the planet to be lost in.

Yes, Prague is simply not believable. It’s castle upon castle. Almost any one of the buildings here would be a fantastic historical sight in and of it’s own. And there are THOUSANDS of them. Each one is unique in character, history and beauty.

After my run in which I saw a whole lot of Prague, I saw a whole lot of it again by taking a city tour. It was pretty good, but I probably could have managed on my own too. We drove through New Town (new being relative here – it was built in the 14th century) and through some other parts, and then walked around Prague Castle and the Castle District, the Lesser Town District, the Charles Bridge, and finally Old Town, including Old Town Square. During the tour, I heard a lot about Wenceslas, the patron saint of the Czech Republic. I mentioned to the guide that I had attended St. Wenceslas School and church. “Oh”, she said. (Not really – she was actually very interested.)

After resting up, I decided to walk over to Wenceslas Square in New Town, since I had only seen that by bus. The statue of Wenceslas is one of the most imposing I’ve seen anywhere – except maybe the Statue of Liberty, and perhaps Budapest’s Liberation Monument. But the setting here is really great.

I also walked over to Charles Square, and then over to the Charles Bridge and back again through Old Town.

I said I wouldn’t notice the Czech women. But I lied about this too. They are beautiful as well, and - let me put this as delicately as possible – they all have those big boobs. It took a while, but a few days later I was thinking about this statement when the irony hit me like a falling piano. Here I was, a wild and crazy guy from America looking at those big Czech breasts.

For my second long run in two consecutive days I pulled the “get lost in Prague” trick again. At least I didn’t trip on a cobblestone this time. I found my way north, up through Letenske Park, where I ran yesterday, and into Stromovska Park. It’s a woodsy place, but there’s also a canal and another river running through. Lots of good running there.

Having spent a day exploring Prague, I had it figured that I’d seen it all and had booked a trip to a castle outside of town, somewhere in the hills of Bohemia. Sounded good until the morning, when I started thinking that I’d had enough of tours; I’d be fine with exploring inside of Prague on my own some more. So I canceled. There had to be at least a couple more things to see.

After about an hour of walking (mostly up), I arrived at Prague Castle once again. I felt there was more to see, and I had an unused ticket for a climb to the top of St. Vitas Cathedral, all 300 to 400 stairs or whatever. The cathedral wasn’t open, so I had some time to kill. I walked up some more to Strahovsky Klaster, a monastery up in the hills. They have a famous old library, and the inside of the church looks almost like the Sistine chapel. No photography, of course.

After some further exploration of the Hrdcany, or Castle District (there’s that Czech spelling again), I squeezed my way between the throngs of people, and into St. Vitas for the climb up the tower. I pulled out my ticket and realized it was the wrong one – it was a used one from something else from yesterday. Yes, I could’ve bought one, but when I thought about it, I determined that it just wasn’t to be.


Bucharest
I’ve learned that it’s not pronounced “boo-ka-rest” as I thought, it’s really “bew-ka-rest”. Keep this in mind if you ever go there.

The Romanian people I’ve been meeting with all have heavy 5-oclock shadows, and thick, bushy mustaches and eyebrows. And you should see the men. I’m 100% kidding about this. I did really work with one lady who had a pronounced ‘widow’s peak’. That’s the Dracula hairdo look with the pointy area of the hairline. Kinda the opposite of what I have.

Getting to and from work is an adventure each and every time. Taxis are plentiful and cheap, and they are about the only way for me to get across town from the hotel. There is only one rule for driving here: there are no rules. That’s not entirely true – there really are a few traffic laws that are followed, such as: always turn left from the right lane, speed up if the traffic ahead of you is slowing down, and use the horn a lot in the event that you happen to be traveling toward oncoming traffic in their lane or if you happen to be going the wrong way on a one-way street. For some odd reason, the traffic really does stop for traffic signals. Go figure.

I’m staying right across the street from the Palace of Parliament, one of the world’s largest buildings. I can see it from my hotel window. It was started by the communist regime and finished after they were overthrown. It took me 15 minutes to run around it this morning. The running here is ok by the way – but there’s lots of air pollution. The funny thing is that the Marriott hotel that I’m staying in appears to be built in the same style as the palace (it’s very fancy) and is almost as big. It’s actually a bit too ostentatious for my taste.

Having gotten used to running circuits around the palace and the adjacent park, I finally decided to be a bit more adventurous for my last run in Bucharest. I went around the palace and kept going down a long boulevard, stumbling my way into the city center. I guess I hadn’t seen it from the many different routes I’d taken by taxi. It’s fairly interesting with a fountain, a central square, and commercial activity all around. My run also took me for several miles along a canal that bisects the city. Pretty decent running, but I’ll be happy when I’m running at home again. I did also head back to the hotel to get the camera. Took a couple of the city center, got one more of the palace, and some of me running in the park as well. In the evening I did some more exploring of the city center when there were more people around. Their ‘old town’ area has some shops and restaurants, but it’s pretty run down. I saw some of the still-present bullet-holes in the buildings from the revolution that occurred here in the late 80’s. the square in the middle does have a nice fountain and is surrounded by more modern shopping, not to mention advertisements.

I think they’re going to let me go home now, based on my mostly good behavior. I’ll try to stay good so I don’t have to come back.

2006 Dan in Dusseldorf

Out of all the places for phase 1 of this client project, Germany wouldn't have been my top choice. Spain or Italy sound much nicer. Not so sure about the UK. But Germany it is, and here I am. The other problem was missing the Cleveland Marathon this weekend. Nothing I could do about that either.

Getting here was somewhat uncomfortable, as most long flights are. I did manage some sleep on the way from JFK to Amsterdam. The flight from Amsterdam to Dusseldorf was only about 40 minutes in a puddle jumper.

Upon arriving at the hotel at about 2pm, I tried to call home, since I had figured it to be 8pm there. When Debbie didn't answer after repeated tries I started to panic - she had driven home from Connecticut, and should have arrived hours earlier. The panic was worse because I couldn't call anyone else - all my numbers are in my cell phone which was at home since it wouldn't work here. Of course I finally found out that Cleveland is 6 hours BEHIND Dusseldorf, not ahead of it. So it was still morning there, and Debbie wouldn't be home for hours.

Early on, I had only eaten at the hotel and at the client cafeteria. Nothing really great to speak of, but lots and lots of volume. Breakfast (and today, lunch) buffets sure don't help when it comes to controlling intake. Some of the food is quite interesting - the white asparagus as a main course is very good. The waitresses will tell you to eat it because it's good for you. Yeah, but not the gallon of hollandaise you smother it in. You can still order meat or fish as a side dish. Other German favorites abound as well. I feel like I'll weigh a ton when I get back.

Without a car, and a couple miles away from the city center, there's not much to do (except work) and I'm not getting out much. I run in the morning, and walk in the evening, mostly along the Rhine River. It's wonderfully serene, with very wide park-like areas on both banks. And there are walk, bike and run paths galore all over the city, with several stretching for miles and miles along the river.

Work is ok. The client contacts all speak English, but some are hard to understand. The counts can be intense because of the language and because some are tightly scheduled. The good news is that there isn't an over-abundance of follow-on work. So I do have some time to myself in the evenings.

After a few days of hotel food, I finally did venture out some. Yesterday Pam and I walked along the Rhine to a restaurant that I had discovered right along the river. It was nice eating out on the back deck overlooking some yachts. The folks didn't speak much English, but we managed - I wound up with a ball-o-burger meat with fried eggs on top for 7 euros. Pam got filet mignon for 8 euros. Then today we figured out the subway/train situation enough to ride it to downtown and old town Dusseldorf. Being a stranger in a strange land, especially when you don't speak the language means that you spend an awful lot of time being lost, dazed and confused.

Old town is like a typical European town with cobblestone streets, shopping, and several nice restaurants and bars. We ate at a German place where I sampled 4 types of sausage with kraut and fries. This on top of the appetizer of tons of cheese with bread. This is fat/cholesterol heaven.

Speaking of lost and confused, we somehow found our way over to Cologne (via a train from the main station) the next day. More cobblestone streets, bars, restaurants and shopping. But there were two differences: this is the actual home of the original cologne, and there's one mother of a cathedrals here. It seemed to me that it put Notre Dame to shame. We took a $4 english tour and learned about the history of the place. Turns out the the Magi (yes, the original three wise guys) are supposedly buried there by the altar. How's that for history? Then we climbed something on the order of 350-400 feet to the top of the tower. As Lori had said, you must have bats in your belfry to do something like that. Quite a view from up there though.

Every morning I make the usual choices about how long, far, fast to run, etc., but also one of four more choices: east or west bank of the Rhine, and north or south. Today it was south on the east bank, and it wasn't the greatest, even though the footing was good - too much industry there. I've got it figured out now: for longer runs, north along east bank is best, and for shorter runs, south on the west bank rules.

There were two choices Pam and I could think of to see more of the best of Dusseldorf: take the train to a palace built in the 1800s (supposedly rivaling Versailles) and take a city tour. In order to get a more thorough and varied outlook, we went for the city tour. After walking around old town and exploring some more very old churches, we got on the bus. The speaker spoke German first and then English, and it was a bit distracting. After riding around town for a while we got on a boat for a river tour. That was pretty neat. Then the tour wound up going up to the Rhine tower which is 168 meters high - way above the surrounding buildings. But only a little higher than we climbed yesterday. We could see Cologne, our hotel, way up and down the river, etc. Pretty neat too.

So the tour was decent. We were lucky with the weather - it was cloudy, but at least there was no rain like we had yesterday. As a result, I left my umbrella at a restaurant. I think I'd still like to see the palace though.

No discussion of experiences in a foreign land would be complete without a note about bathrooms. Pam and I tried everything we could think of when asking if there was one in the Dusseldorf main train station: men/ladies/women's room, toilets, rest rooms, potties, you name it. We got the same answer from two different information persons: There aren't any of those in Dusseldorf. A bit later on while we were still wandering in the station, Pam asked what "WC" means. That's when it dawned on me: having been to Europe before, I should have known what to ask for. One other thing: there are public walk-in urinals all over town. They have a little boy peeing logo on them. Very handy if you're of a gender who is able to stand during the act. No help for sitting type genders.

For the second to the last evening, Pam and I went back to old town to shop for a few last-minute souvenirs and to eat dinner. Picked up a couple things, and the Agentine/Spanish steak place was really good. Then it was time to take the subway back. We thought we had these things figured out really well. The U77 comes closest to the hotel, but it stops running at 7:30pm and also doesn't go on weekends. That's ok, because we can also take the U70, U74 or U76, which are only a little farther away. It was 7:50 and we were waiting for a U74 or U76 when we saw a U77 come by on a different than usual track. Pam said, "Let's catch that one", but as we were getting on, I had a few reservations: 1) it was on the wrong track, 2) it was after hours, 3) based on 1 and 2, it may have possibly been going the wrong way. I mentioned being dubious, but continued to get on anyway. As the doors closed there came two more reservations: 4) we were the only people on the train and 5) one guy outside was wagging his finger at us in a strange manner.

The train left and after a few minutes pulled up to stop at a subway-train graveyard. There didn't appear to be any way to get out without walking on the tracks, although this turned out to be not completely the case. As the lights began to go out in the train, I said something on the order of, "we're in deep s__t!". We ran up to discuss the situation with the driver, who smiled but didn't speak English at all, except to say, "10 minutes, one stop". After moving over to a different train, he got us going back to the station again after the mandatory stupid-American 10-minute penalty waiting period. There we were able to finally get off and then onto the U74 for the ride home.

2006 Hawaii

This will be a bit different from the usual tirades. Yes, this will be a special tirade... It will be different in that it won't just be a day-by-day account of our 2006 Hawaii trip. The reason? The trip itself was different this time. We didn't spend a lot of time or trouble to get there. We didn't spend a lot of money whilst there - at least no more than we had to. We didn't do a whole lot, but we did do some things. And finally, we only went to one island, instead of the usual two, and sometimes more.

The trip to and from was as nice and easy as a trip to Hawaii can be - we only stopped once in Houston, then came directly to Maui. Same going back.

We stayed at the Renaissance Wailea. It's a wonderful resort hotel, with all the amenities you can imagine. Unfortunately, it's slightly dated, and there are rumors that it will be turned into condos. This would be a sad development since we'd surely return some day. The Renaissance upgraded us to an oceanview room where we could hear the singing from the place’s restaurant as well as the drums of the local luau. They also gave us some free ice cream, and unlimited coffee and soft drink refills.

Not that we'd ever pay for such a thing as staying at this fancy schmancy joint. Those Marriott Rewards Points take some time to accumulate, but they sure pay off well. I should also mention here that the air, as usual, was based on NW frequent flyer miles. So our costs were mostly the rental car and meals.

Speaking of keeping the costs down, we did something for the first time. We attended a timeshare presentation. It was at the old Maui Marriott in Kaanapali, a place where we’ve stayed in the past when it was a normal hotel, and it was actually a very informative and interesting ninety minutes. Not that we would ever, ever seriously consider such a thing... but we got $150 in gift certificates to be spent on meals at our hotel out of the deal.

There was one other costly item. It really wasn’t that bad – fifty bucks each, and well worth it. It was Warren and Annabelle's Magic Show, back in West Maui/Lahaina again. Debbie and I don’t get out for these kinds of things much, but this was highly recommended. And with good reason - what a great show! Warren's magical skills are unsurpassed (how did he do some of those things?), and he was extremely funny as well. I, in turn, will now strongly recommend this show to anyone coming to Maui.

As usual, we ate well. It didn’t take too much to use our $150 credit, but the food at the Renaissance’s Palm Court dinner buffet was great. The famous onion rings at the resort’s lunch place, the Maui Onion were also yummy, but they did me in. Maybe it’s because one serving was about 8 pounds. Other joints we haunted:

A Saigon Café: Thai/Vietnamese place frequented by locals. Very good food and lots of local color.
Prince Court: In the Maui Prince Hotel, this was our fanciest, most expensive, and generally best meal. The $28 Entertainment Book discount was like a pebble off Mount Everest. But it sure tasted good.
Aloha Mixed Plate: Another place frequented by the locals. With authentic Hawaiian food. It included a lot of food found at the typical luau, but without the entertainment and high prices.
South Shore Tiki Lounge: Another local place, but more of a bar, with food as an afterthought. Food is never an afterthought to Debbie or I. They had a singer who was very good however.
Bada Bing: Very good Italian food. Entertainment Coupon helped here too.
Bamboo Grill: Yet another local joint. I loved the Thai food, but Debbie didn’t think the place was very clean, and didn’t enjoy the experience. Maybe it was because the chef came out to have a smoke in his best dirty white t-shirt.

Other food stuff: Not a whole lot of other restaurants for 11 days there. We had a fridge in our room, so we had milk and cereal as well as lots of fruit for breakfast, and lunchmeat/cheese sandwiches and chips for lunches. The chips and the bakery were not the best ideas.

Two of our three most exciting activities were whale watching and hiking. In the past, we’ve paid good money to go on whale-watching boats. This time we could watch the whales right from the shore. And they were very close by. We could even see them from our lanai. It was pretty amazing stuff. Some would slap their tails on the water multiple times. We even saw complete breaches, which I thought were rare: on different occasions, Debbie and I both saw the whales jump completely out of the water. What a sight!

The other activity that I’m willing to discuss is the hiking. Debbie and I walked every day. There is a 1.5 mile (each way) walkway along the ocean to connect all the resort hotels in Wailea. If we did nothing else, we did that walk. It also made for great people and whale watching. But the big hikes were really big. We did three:

1) Lahaina Pali trail. It heads up the west Maui mountains and back. We could've gone to the other end, but then would've had to arrange for transportation back. It was 5.75 miles, but the 1600 elevation climb over rocky terrain was extremely tough. And coming back down in the afternoon heat wasn't any easier. Took 2 1/2 hours to get up there and 1 hour 50 minutes to come back down. But what views! It wore us out, but what a hike!
2) Waile'e Ridge Trail. It was almost as difficult as the Lahaina Pali Trail, but we didn't have to contend with as many rocks, and there was a bit more shade. This one was also on West Maui, but on the cooler/wetter part. The views were unsurpassed the whole way. The valley below was unbelievable. We hiked the 4.75 mile, 1500 foot elevation climb in about 4 hours. Once again, coming down the steep hills was almost as challenging as going up.
3) Pipiwai Trail. This was our third and last Major Hike, and it was a very nice one. About 4 miles round trip, and about 600 to 800 feet up, it was easier than the others. At the end of the trail was Waikomo Falls, which cascaded hundreds of feet down. There were other falls and many pools as well. It was another beautiful place here in paradise. The hike took about 4 hours. Probably the hardest part about this one, however, was the drive to and from it. Located at Oheo Gulch near Hana, the driving round trip was over five hours. But, as I like to say, the joy is in the journey.

Other slightly less exciting activities included driving around the larger east end of the island twice. You wouldn't think that a simple drive around an island (well, most of it) would be such an adventure. But the "Road to Hana" is justifiably one of the most famous drives in the world. The beauty of the many waterfalls and ocean and mountain vistas did not disappoint. We had lunch in Hana (there really isn't all that much there - it's the journey that's important) and then drove on to Oheo Gulch. This was formerly known as the Seven Sacred Pools – until someone figured out that there’s not seven pools, and they’re not sacred. We kept going around the south end of the island, thereby violating our rental agreement because the road is rough and somewhat scary. Now we're worried that the rental car police will come after us. The south end is spectacular in it's own way, but much dryer. All in all it took us 9 hours to drive the 100 to 150 miles that first time. Debbie was ill afterwards. It must have been the stressful hike the day before combined with the rough road on the trip. The second round trip was counter-clockwise, and we didn’t stop hardly at all, except for the Pipiwai Trail.

One day we drove to upcountry Maui and walked through the Kula Botanical Gardens, and also stopped at Sunrise Market and Protea Farm. That was a nice, easy day.

We did some exploring in the areas south of the Renaissance - Makena, Big Beach, Le Perouse Bay, etc. This is the area that I run to almost every morning. And speaking of running, I did a lot there, especially on that deserted road down through the lava flow to the dead end that feels like the end of the world. It was exciting, mostly because it was extremely dark. Dark enough to be hit by a bicyclist coming down a hill at me. That happened there last time, but this time I had my headlamp for protection and vision.

I also did a bit of snorkeling and swam in the cool ocean after each day’s run.

The rest was active relaxation. Reading, watching the waves, watching the sunsets, etc, etc. That was the best part.

2005 California and Lake Tahoe

LA

Friday, September 30, 2005

Yikes. The closer we got to hour hotel, the closer we got to the wildfires of Burbank. We had been traveling all day, and had somehow navigated our way from LAX to our home away from home. Since it was dark already, we could see the flames as we drove, and we couldn't help but notice that we were headed right for them. The "Hill of Flames" was seemingly just a mile or so away from the Courtyard, and we stood and watched as we got out of the car. Everyone else assured me that we were safe. Yeah right.

Dana and Todd guided us to Hollywood and Highland, where we ate at the expensive-but-very-good Grill on the Alley. Then we walked along the Stars Walk of Fame and over to Grauman's Chinese Theater - the place with the hand-prints.

Got back at 1am. I had been up for 23 hours and 30 minutes.



Saturday, October 1, 2005

Another touristy day in Southern California. Leaving the wildfires behind, we started out by visiting Dana and Todd's pad and meeting Sam, their charming turtle. Feeding time for Sam was exciting to watch. Going to brunch at Dana and Todd's favorite place (Chez Noir) was quite an experience. What a great place. Best croissants I've ever had. By far.

The touristy stuff started when we got to Universal Studios and paid our $53 per person to get in. We took the studio tram tour, and went to several of the attractions. The best was the T2 in 3D show. Also interesting was the Waterworld show. The special effects for these two were especially impressive.

Dana and Todd had to split and head to a work function for Dana. After some amount of trouble figuring out where to eat in the shopping/tourist area outside the park, we wound up at Gladstone's Seafood. Like all the food we've tasted, it was very good, and fairly expensive. Carol got a bit of shopping done, but we got home at a decent hour.


Sunday, October 2, 2005

"Make the fun stop!!" That's what our friends Dot and Greg say when they're having too much fun and can't take it anymore. That's the situation here in Southern California.

Todd wasn't feeling well, so just Dana came with us as our personal in-the-car tour guide to the beaches. We drove up the Pacific Coast Highway (the PCH) and various other roads through Topanga and on to Malibu. There we lounged on the beach for a couple hours whilst gathering dead, washed-ashore lobsters and other flotsam, flying an alien kite, exploring tide pools and making about 6 throws of a frisbee. It was only in the upper 60s, but it felt nice. Then we ate at Paradise Cove, which is right there on the beach.

After dinner we drove to the Santa Monica Pier to shop, people watch, and sunset watch. It reminded me of Navy Pier - there was plenty to do, and the sunset was really neat. Debbie and I had to explain to everyone about the "green flash". Some of us claimed to see it.

Tomorrow it's on to Yosemite!

Yosemite

Monday, October 3, 2005

We ate breakfast at the oldest remaining Bob's Big Boy. I keep wondering if there are older Big Boys with other names, such as Manners? It took only about 4 1/2 hours to reach the Apple Tree Inn in Fish Camp, just south of Yosemite. Wonderful place. We have 3-unit cottages in the woods with heat only from fireplaces. Very rustic.

Dave and I refused to give up. First Carol, then Debbie (to ride the tram with her - they enjoyed it but they froze), then Todd and finally Dana turned back. But we men-folk kept going to the top. Top of what, you ask? The sequoia grove and museum, which was about 1,100 feet up a long uphill trail. Too bad the museum was closed. We did enjoy the walk, and all the Big Trees. The joy is in the journey. Took the two of us over 2 hours to head up, but less than a half-hour to come down. And we somehow beat Todd - he had managed to get lost and come straggling in later.

Dinner was at an informal but good Mexican place: El Cid.


Tuesday, October 4, 2005

After our continental hotel breakfast, we drove the couple miles back to the park, and went right up to Glacier Point. Fantastic vistas of the valley far below. I may have my numbers wrong, but I believe that we were at about 7,500 feet looking down at the 4,000 foot valley floor.

After lunch we drove into the valley. Stopped at a neat walking bridge and skipped some rocks whilst gaping at the rocks above us on both sides.

Yosemite Falls was dried up for the year. Instead of hiking to them we watched a video at the nature center.

Tuesday night we walked over for an expensive dinner at the Tenaya Lodge. Nice place with good, but costly food. Due to those big bucks, Dave and I had to give up the $50 bill we had been passing back and forth to pay for dinners.


Wednesday, October 5, 2005

Another driving day. It took us about as long to get from Yosemite to Tahoe as it did from LA to Yosemite. Too many mountains in the way. It was a beautiful trip though. We got to see parts of Yosemite that we hadn't yet been though. Stopped near Mono lake for lunch.

There was a disorganized meeting for the Tahoe Triple at the Horizon Resort and Casino that evening. The best part was the buffet dinner - it was excellent. Dave and Carol hit the slots afterwards. And not for the last time, either.

Tahoe
Day 1 - Thursday, Oct 6, 2005

It's bad when you're out of breath before you begin a race. Especially so when you're running down a mountain. Could be the 7,000+ feet of elevation. The view from Inspiration point more than made up for the lack of oxygen.

After taking in that spectacular scene and watching the sunrise, we were off. It was clear, 29F, and only light breezes. Perfect. And for most of the way, the run went about as perfect as it could too. My crew consisted of my wife Debbie, brother Dave, and his wife Carol. They did a spectacular job of supporting me.

The first couple miles were extremely down hill, and we soon arrived in the towns of South Lake Tahoe and Stateline. I didn't like the traffic or the resulting exhaust. We had to run along the side of the road the whole way, but the traffic was the most of the problem going up/down mountains, and through town. I started slow even with that drop - about 8:30 miles. The course was marked every 5 miles. I hit mile 5 in 42:51.

Running with new friends Pat from Northwest Ohio and Bill from Invercargill, NZ, I settled down for the mostly level next 10 miles. This included the through town part, but also getting back out into less populated areas on the Nevada side of the lake. Did I mention that Pat and Bill are in my age group? Pat dropped back early on, but Bill pulled ahead of me at about mile 18. I passed 15 in 2:04. I felt great. The next 5 went well also. I hit the 20 mile mark in 2:47 - miles 15-20 had been in 42:50.

But at the 20-mile mark the hills were just beginning. Correction: the mountain was just beginning. Whereas the lake is at 6,200 feet, the finish at Spooner Summit is at 7,200 feet. And it was a steady climb from 20 on, with the steepest parts reserved for the final mile or two. I never stopped to walk. But it was an extremely slow slog. I didn't pass anyone, and nobody passed me. I actually did better than expected, running the final 10K in 55:11 to finish 13th out of about 112 starters in 3:42:11.

I'll take it. After soaking my legs in the icy cold lake, I hope I'll be ready for tomorrow. I'm sore, but I generally feel ok. We'll see.


Day 2 - Friday, Oct 7, 2005

There were some similarities to yesterday:

1) we started at a 7,000 foot plus elevation, so I was hyperventilating *before* I started running
2) we started at a 7,000 foot plus elevation, so there were some big downhills for the first few miles
3) the scenery was fantastic
4) the weather was great - only a few degrees warmer than yesterday
5) the last few were a bit of a death march

Now the differences:

1) I started too fast. I don't know why - I should've known better. But the guys I beat yesterday went way out in front of me, and I just had to try to hang with them.
2) Whereas yesterday was the toughest marathon, excluding ultras, that I've ever done, today's race was merely difficult.
3) Whereas yesterday's course had a mountain climb from 20 to 26, today there was merely a monster hill.
4) I somehow managed to run even slower for today's final 10K than yesterday's.

I suppose I can chalk it up to the accumulated miles on my old legs. I felt fine until a big hill at about mile 14. Starting at Spooner Summit, the first five were in 38 minutes (as I said, way too fast), the second five were in 41:39, and the third five (including the big hill) were in 43:09. So I was at 2:03 for the first 15. But that's where those accumulated miles took their toll.

The scenery was great the whole way. The traffic and exhaust fumes were much better today, but it was still tough to stay on the shoulder. Even the smaller towns on the north side of the lake weren't too bad. 15 to 20 were mostly flat, but I was slowing down: I did them in 44:42 and 20 went by in 2:47 and a half. Still not bad.

I was still slowing down when the big hill hit at about mile 23.5. I still never walked, but that slog was really bad. Even that last downhill mile into Tahoe City was slow. I finished 16th overall in 3:49:41. Something like a minute better than my PW.

Once again, my support crew was great. I don't know what I would've done without them.

Once again, I soaked my legs in the icy cold Tahoe water for about 20 minutes. I'm starting to wonder how much good this is doing me. Tomorrow's course may be tougher than Thursday's. At least they have the roads closed down and more support - this is the main marathon with several hundred participants.

Should I be as worried as I think I should be??


Day 3 - Saturday, Oct 8, 2005

*Excruciating* Quad Pain in the middle of the night. Enough to wake me up and keep me awake.

Last night's sunset pasta dinner cruise had been nice, and did indeed include a sunset and some pasta. But it was disappointing because it left so late that the sunset was just after we got going, leaving the lake dark for almost all of the voyage. It would have been far nicer to enjoy those beautiful hues of blue some more. There wasn't that much to the pasta either. Decent band though.

The 'ole legs were pretty sore, especially the quads, so I took a couple ibuprofen before heading to bed. I guess it was when they wore off that the pain woke me. All I could do is apply a self massage and worry that I may have to be a Did Not Start statistic.

By the time I made it to the start, I was still shaky, but generally better. I made up my mind that I was gonna get through this no matter what. This being the official marathon, there were 588 or so of us. Many more half-marathoners, 10Kers and 20-mile walkers joined us on the course at various times.

The first half was very scenic, but there were only a few views of the lake. I was indeed making it through, albeit slowly. There were only a few hills, so I managed about an 8:30-8:40 pace. The mountains were looming however.

God put many hills and mountains on this planet. But why o why did He always place them at about the 20-mile mark of every marathon? This time there was a huge climb at about mile 16, followed by a steep downhill, and then another tremendous climb from 19 to 20. I was reduced to walking for the first time in the three days. The scenery during these miles has to be as spectacular as that for any marathon anywhere. That helped with the pain.

I had hit the 15-mile mark in about 2:10, but it took me 53 minutes to negotiate those mountains to the 20-mile mark. Right at the 20-mile mark we were at Inspiration Point, at 7,000++ feet, the highest point on today's course. It's also where we started on day 1. It's also what I was calling "Perspiration Point", but then changed it to "Desperation Point".

The next three miles were severely downhill, but my attitude was "Damn the Quads, Full Speed Ahead". I did manage to pass a lot of people, and my legs held up, but then I slowed down again when we hit the nice, wooded bikepath for the final three miles. Pat, another triple guy, and a couple others passed me as I was desperately trying to get in under 4 hours.

Somehow I did, but not by much: 3:58:58. Bill the Kiwi ran his fastest of the three to win our age group. Pat and another guy got 2nd and 3rd - Pat had run with me before leaving me in the dust in the final 2 miles or so.

But I made it! As great as the Triple has been, I'm really glad it's over. Yes, I am proud of my accomplishment. I think I'll take tomorrow off.


Epilog / Lessons Learnt

I can't figure out how I could have trained any better. It wasn't practical for me to do any altitude training. I sure put in the miles, especially in terms of long runs. Back to back long runs and three in a row at times. Perhaps more hill work would have helped. In any case I still go by the mantra: “the will to win is nothing without the will to prepare”.

The triple was harder than most ultras are for me. This is mostly because I tried to race, such as it was, each of the three runs, whereas for ultras I usually slow way down and just slog through them.

In terms of time, I did about what I wanted and expected. The courses were about as tough as I expected too. That is to say, they were the three toughest marathons I've ever done. The altitude made all of them difficult for a lowlander like myself. Day 1 ended going up the mountain to Spooner Summit. Day 2 was the least difficult of the three, but it still had two big climbs at about miles 14 and 24, not to mention that it was long by about a half-mile. I know: suck it up, Dan. Day 3 was arguably the toughest of all - that double climb up to Inspiration Point at mile 20 was a monster. I know: suck it up, Dan.

It was neat being a rock star. That's how the other marathoners and half-marathoners viewed us triple-people. Time to come back down to earth now.

As pleased as I am with my overall time (11:30 for the three days), my place (17th of about 112 or so starters) and the overall experience, I do wish I had paced myself better. I'm sure that if I'd held back just a bit on day 1, I'd have done much better for the second half of days 2 and 3. The word 'conservative' just isn't in my vocabulary. I have a lot of admiration for those triplers who managed to have consistent times for all three runs. A few even got faster each day.

The best of the Tahoe Triple:

-Having a crew. This made me feel like I was part of a team. Great fun.
-The camaraderie. All of the competitors got to know each other very well during this shared experience. Pat from Toledo, Bill the Kiwi, Gene from Erie, the Mexican guys, even former 4-time winner Sean all seem like good friends now. I look forward to bumping into some of them again some day.
-The scenery, of course.
-The difficulty. If it had been easy, anyone could've done it.

In need of improvement:

-Traffic control. We knew this would be a problem for days 1 and 2, and it was. Something needs to be done.
-Organization. The race directors need to get their processes under control.
-Cost. It was well over $200. I did get three shirts (a wind shirt for the regular thon, and a tank top and sweatshirt for the triple), as well as a nice plaque. I also got a good buffet dinner and the bus rides out to the start. But it still seemed like a lot of moola.

Those are fairly minor quibbles. I thoroughly enjoyed myself. I'll count this among my proudest and most enjoyable running experiences. I probably won't do this again, but I may be a bit less afraid to try other new challenges.

2005 Hawaii

Hawaii 2005

Saturday, January 8
It turns out that airplane smoke alarms can be scary things. Not so much when they go off whilst still on the ground as they did there in Minneapolis. No, they’re scary when they go off again, in the air, after the problem was “fixed”. We were a might concerned – especially since it was a little hard to breathe. They announced that we would head back to the Twin Cities, but you don’t just turn a DC-10 around all that fast. By the time we dumped our fuel and were met by the three or four fire engines on the ground, an hour had passed. By the time we got going again (on a new plane, thank you), several hours had passed, causing us to miss our connecting flight from Honolulu to Kauai, causing us to overnight in a junky Honolulu Hotel. And we thought that once we got off the ground (late) in that Cleveland snowstorm, everything would be fine. But at least we were in a junky hotel in Hawaii.

Sunday, January 9
Kauai isn’t really all that hot in January. Not that we’re complaining about 70’s during the day and low 60’s at night. They had recently had some terrific flooding from a storm that brought 14 inches of rain. We’re lucky to have missed that one.

We picked up a copy of “Kauai Revealed” by Doughty and Friedman. It calls itself the “Ultimate Kauai Guidebook” and it really is. Although it’s best to use it as a reference, it’s interesting enough to read from cover to cover. Everybody is walking around with these things, and bookstores stopped bothering to carry any other guidebooks.

Our resort is pretty swanky. We’ve got our own huge bay (Nawiliwili) and beach (Kalapacki) mostly to ourselves. Too bad we can’t swim at the beach. The rains caused bacteria to wash into the nearby river and into the ocean, making swimming unsafe. I thought that only happened in Cleveland.

After driving up to Wailua Falls (the one you see on Fantasy Island), we had a nice champagne brunch without champagne at our hotel. Note to self: always ask price before feeding face. We should’ve remembered that one from our 1985 “Ice Swan and Caviar” incident here in Kauai. The price for the 2005 buffet was in the neighborhood of $37 or so. Each.

Monday, January 10
Kauai is incredibly beautiful. Each and every square inch of it. It’s exactly what you think of when you conjure up a picture of a tropical paradise. By the way, chickens are to Kauai as geese are to northern Ohio. Except they’re noisier, but don’t seem to poop quite as much. Apparently several bantam chickens got loose during a hurricane a decade or two ago. Since then, they’ve taken over the island. From their perspective, it’s “Chickens in Paradise!”

I now have the Kalalau Trail out of my system. At least for another 20 years. In 1985 we hiked the two miles (seemed like 20) along this coastal trail to a beach along the way. We then explored a bit and turned back. Since then, I’ve been wanting to hike the entire 11 miles of the trail, even though Debbie doesn’t want to backpack, which is the only way the whole 22-mile out and back thing can be done. I had this brilliant idea that we could have a boat take us to the end of it so that we could walk back. Unfortunately, we learned that boats are not allowed to land at the end of the trail in the Kalalau valley. So in 2005, we just hiked in and then back out again. We didn’t even make it as far as we did 20 years ago. After a couple hours of climbing rocks and slipping through mud, we’d had enough. As before, however, the views along the way are spectacular – especially the lookout about a ½ hour in. So maybe it was worth it. We’ll see how it’s changed when we tackle it in 2025.

We stopped in Hanalei on the way back. We were again disappointed to learn that the Magic Dragon was out for the day.

Tuesday, January 11
We thought about taking a boat, including a snorkel trip, to the “forbidden” isle of Niihau, the only inhabited Hawaiian Island that we haven’t set foot on. But then we thought again. It turns out that you can’t even get off the boat to go ashore there. Why, you ask? Because it’s forbidden.

Wednesday, January 12
Now I have hiking in general out of my system. The Honopu Ridge Trail came highly recommended by our guidebook. But with the mud, hills and thick jungle, it was at least as tough as the Kalalau Trail. After over two hours of slithering through 2 miles and over 1000 vertical feet of that stuff (recall the mudslide in Romancing the Stone), we wound up on one of the narrow ridges of the Na Pali Cliffs, with huge deep valleys on both sides. (Incidentally, Na Pali means “cliff” so I’m being a bit redundant here, but then, anyone who’s seen these cliffs understands why.) We were treated to truly magnificent views. We made it back with one or two un-muddy spots, and one or two unscratched areas on my legs. Debbie had been smart enough to wear pants.

Although it’s a totally different valley, I must say that the Honopu Valley looks an awful lot like the Kalalau Valley, which you can just drive right up to. But then, the Joy is in the Journey. Isn’t it?

Dinner was at Dukes. We had some good Mahi Mahi.

Thursday, January 13
Liquid sunshine spoiled our day at the beach. With Kalapacki Beach off limits, we drove, snorkel gear in tow, down to good old Poipu Beach for the day. I’ve never seen so much rain and sun, at the same time for so long. We might have still gone into the water, but the wind had kicked up some big waves too. We consoled ourselves with a nice lunch at familiar Brennecke’s. Just another shitty day in paradise.

Friday, January 14
We drove up north again to take a self-guided walking tour of Limihule National Botanical Garden. They had excellent examples of all of the original and endangered native Hawaiian plants, as well as those bad ones introduced by the Polynesians and Europeans. I say bad because they’re choking out the original native stuff. Why is that important, you ask? Because once the native stuff is gone, it’s gone forever – lots of it grows here and nowhere else. Besides the interesting plants, another attraction was the location: Limahule Valley is stunningly spectacular – it’s where the Na Pali cliffs begin. Too bad the skeeters were spectacular as well.

On the way back we stopped at the Guava Plantation. Then we had good Italian food at Café Portofino.

Saturday, January 15
Whereas Kauai is awesomely beautiful, the Big Island of Hawaii is just awesome. Whereas every square inch of Kauai is utterly gorgeous, there are plenty of places on the Big Island that are just plain ugly. This is mostly because of the ubiquitous lava. With the flows so recent in the geological past, nature hasn’t had so much of a chance to turn the whole place into a paradise. Yet. The lava flows, covering miles and miles of the island, are especially prominent on the drier west side (the Kona side where we were) because water and plant life have not had as much of an opportunity to work. This is not to say that the place isn’t awe-inspiring; it is. Sweeping views over vast distances, including multiple volcanoes see to that. And some parts of the island are extremely pretty.

Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, the two tallest mountains, were snow-capped. At dusk we drove up to the Mauna Kea visitor center at the 9300-foot level. We wondered why so much traffic was headed down as we were headed up. We later learned that they were skiers (some bringing back pickup loads of snow!) coming down from the summit. At the visitor center we did some stargazing using some telescoped provided by the University of Hawaii and an astronomy organization. The BIG telescopes (best on the planet) are 4500 feet higher at the summit. We looked at Saturn, the moon and the pleides and orion nebulae. It never got too cold – only 49F. That was better than the summit, where it was 31.

Sunday, January 16
We walked down to some ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs near our hotel, and spent the rest of the day lounging by the pool. The surf was too rough to swim in the ocean. The few degrees difference between the Big Island and Kauai (low 80s vs mid 70s) make a huge difference. It definitely feels tropical here.

Monday, January 17
IZ is to Hawaii as Bob Marley is to Jamaica. Several years after his death, his popularity still appears to be on the rise. You hear his songs everywhere you go. Luckily, it’s the type of music everyone seems to love and not get tired of.

Two MAJOR hikes today.
Hike 1: We drove to the town of Waimea, parked at the end of a road and hit the trail. It began through some fields, which then turned into a forest. The forest included some bamboo areas that had some eerie cracking noises. I guess bamboo does that. It was a nice and relatively easy hike – we covered the two miles in much less than half the time it took us in Kauai. Then we got to the edge of the Waipio valley. There was a sheer drop of 2000 feet. The trail continued along the edge of the cliff with the sheer drop becoming ever sheerer. Remember the Tarzan movies where they are walking along the side of a steep cliff and every now and then some porter tumbles down? That’s what it was like. We went along that edge for a while before turning back. Good thing we didn’t run into anyone coming the other way.

Hike 2: After a great lunch at Daniel Thiebault’s in Waimea, we drove to the Pololu lookout. It’s a pretty view of the Big Island’s ocean cliffs, with Waipio being on the far end. We had never ventured down to Pololu Beach until now, however. The path was steep, but not overly difficult. The beach has black sand, and the whole area in the valley was neat. Getting back up wasn’t quite so easy, but then, the Joy is in the Journey.

Tuesday, January 18
The Big Island is Big. It took us quite a while to drive to the south end, and we never made it to the eastern side this time around. Along the way we toured a coffee plantation (Greenwell Farms) and bought some cheap Kona coffee from them at 28 bucks a pound. We then checked out a huge, mostly empty subdivision of 1-acre lots that are available for only a few thousand each. The only problem is that there’s no electricity to be had. Or water. Or soil (it’s all lava boulders). We’re going to hold off on the land speculation for now.

We spent the afternoon and evening in Kona. Kona is cool. Dinner was at an Indonesian place called Sibu. Although the food was unusual, it was probably the best dinner we had in the islands. As always, the Kona sunset was supreme.

Wednesday, January 19
We have the Griswalds as neighbors. They like to smoke, have LOUD arguments and LOUD phone and walkie-talkie conversations out on their lanai, which is just above ours. “ALOHA! GUESS WHERE I’M AT!” Five minutes later: “ALOHA! GUESS WHERE I’M AT!” A couple hours later, with the walkie-talkie: “WE’RE ALL GOING TO DINNER AT 7:30. OH, YOU CAN’T MAKE 7:30? THEN WE’LL ALL GO AT 8!” Five minutes later: “WE’RE ALL GOING TO DINNER AT 8 INSTEAD OF 7:30…” and so on.

Dinner was in Waimea at the Waimea Ranch House Grill. Good steaks, but so-so service. Don’t like being forgotten about. At least the Griswalds didn’t show up there.

Thursday, January 20
We went on a whale-watching cruise. Saw a few of the hump-backs, but every time someone would see the spout and holler “Thar She Blows”, our boat would head over to where the whales had just headed under. We never got to see them really well until one surfaced fairly close by as we were heading back.

We ate at Roy’s Euro-Asian Cuisine. Great food. Then we watched a nice hula show put on by several generations of the same family along with a bunch of little keikis.

Friday, January 21
Between the pollution and the high surf, today, our last on the islands, was the only day I could venture into the ocean. So I finally went in for a snorkel. Saw some neat fish and coral. One eel too. Later on Debbie and I spotted a sea turtle near the shore.
Other wildlife we spotted during our stay on the two islands: Mongooses (Not mongeese. They resemble stealth squirrels), owls, and a bird called an ‘a. And oh yeah. Plenty of chickens.