Cancelation Penalty

It seemed like a good plan: we would return from our Mediterranean Cruise, unpack, repack, and then fly out west for a road trip to visit several national parks. All within a week and a half. (And by the way, we also have another trip a few weeks after that one, but that's a different story.) This road trip and short turn-around should not have been a problem for experienced travelers such as ourselves, right?

That's what we thought. Until the bug hit us. We weren't feeling well for the second half of the cruise, and the congestion continued for a while after we got home. Not wanting to travel whilst unwell, we canceled the first part of the road trip (which would have been mostly in Nevada and Utah). Instead, we'd leave later, fly into Denver, and pick up the second half of the road trip from there (which would take us to Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas). Sounds like a good compromise, right?

That's what we thought. Except this time, the Congressional Republicans decided to intervene. They're seriously threatening to shut down the government, which includes national parks. Of course, we don't know whether that will really happen (it's still a week away), but we also didn't want to risk flying and driving all that way and being unable to enter the parks that we came for. Now it was time for a decision: take the risk and stay the course, or cancel everything before the cancelation penalties become too high.

You guessed it. We bagged the whole thing. Our only hope is that our third try will be the charm.

2023 Rome to Lisbon Cruise

 

Bon voyage from Rome

Although our Oceania Sirena cruise begins in Rome, Lady Adventurer and I do not manage to visit the ancient and historic part of the city. That’s okay; we’ve been here before. We are more interested in getting onto our little ship to begin eating and drinking. You may have heard this here, but Oceania Cruise Line is unsurpassed for food quality, service, luxury, and well, what else is there? Oh yeah. The itinerary.

We book these cruises based entirely on their itineraries. This one promises to be especially good: multiple areas in Italy, France, Spain, Monoco, and Morocco that we had yet to visit.

Did I mention the heat? It’s extremely hot in Rome, as it surely will be for a good part of this trip. Thanks, Global Warming. Rome wasn’t already hot enough as it was.

Here's the plan

Isle of Capri, Italy

Capri is a small island, located off the shore of Southern Italy near Naples. It’s the famous home of the Roman Caesar Tiberius and of the rich and famous today. If you want to get there the same way we did, here’s what you do:

1) Eat an early brekkie, just like everyone else on the Serena.
2) Go to the Sirena Lounge to exchange tickets with current ones, and then wait for our number to be called.
3) Take the tender (the Serena is anchored) to shore in Sorrento.
4) Once in Sorrento, meet the tour guide and walk over to the ferry to Capri.
5) Ride the nice, air-conditioned ferry to the island.
6) When the large door folds down, storm the beach as in D-Day, then walk over to the mini-bus.
7) Take the mini-bus up, up, past Capri (the town of), and up further to Anacapri (Anacapri means the hilltop town above Capri).
8) Take the one-butt-per-chair chairlift up to the highest point on the island, Monte Solaro. Once there, enjoy beautiful views of exactly half the island, with the rest shrouded in clouds. Did I mention that Capri is a very vertical place?
9) Do everything in reverse to get back to the ship, except also take a funicular ride along the way.

Isle of Capri

In order to escape some of the heat and crowded places, we took our good ‘ole time having lunch at an authentic-seeming eatery. Capri was scenic and fun, but it was also extremely hot and ridiculously crowded. 

At the top of Isle of Capri

Sardinia, Italy

If the king of Russia is the Czar, and the queen is the Czarina, what do you call their kids? Czardines.

Sardinia is the second largest, after Sicily, island in the Mediterranean. It’s located West of the mainland boot. The ancient Greeks thought it was shaped like a foot or sandal, so they named it accordingly. The name is not influenced by, nor does it have anything to do with (notwithstanding any jokes) sardines, the fish. Here, I thought we’d be doing some fine dining on the little guys.

Just like Rome and Capri, Sardinia is beastly hot. But it helps that it’s not crowded. In fact, the population is around one-sixth that of Sicily. Yet the pastoral countryside is incredibly serene. We make our way to Gallura, the area in the Northwest part of the island. We walk around the towns of Aggius and Tempio, where we had a little lunch with wine.   

Sardinia - there's a party goin' on!

Livorno, Italy

This is not to be confused with Livonia, Michigan. It’s a different locale, altogether. This here Livorno would be the gateway to Pisa, Tuscany, Florence, and Cinque Terre. We’d had our hearts set on the latter, but the tour was canceled due to rain. It seems that part of the getting around was to be by boat, and the storms have been coming and going. So much so, that our ship was rocking and rolling whilst sailing here last night. So much so that we step off the Serena to just walk around the town of Livorno, and we’re chased back in by another sudden rainstorm. Guess it’s going to be a stay-on-the-ship day.

Some people don’t like these storms at sea, but I think they’re swell.    

Bastia, Corsica, France

Once again, high winds and storms prevent us from doing what we’d arranged. In this case, the ship doesn’t land at all, so we get an unplanned day at sea. It would have been nice to see Corsica, but staying at sea is relaxing and restful. C’est le vie.

Monte Carlo, Monaco

Been here a couple of times, including a year and a half ago. It’s pretty cool to see the casino, the royal part, and the stunning harbor area. Not to mention, you get to hobnob with the billionaires. This time around, Lady A. and I take a walk all the way around the harbor in order to admire all the yachts. Later, I venture out once again and make my way up to the botanical garden.

Monte Carlo, Monaco

Monte Carlo, Monaco

Aix-En-Provence, France                                               

What a nice little side trip this is. From the port of La Seyne Sur Mer (Toulon), we drive through stunningly beautiful countryside to arrive at this typical French town. It’s ‘market day’, so there are booths with vendors galore. It’s fun to walk around and explore. The fine weather sure helps.

 Aix-En-Provence

 Aix-En-Provence

Palma De Mallorca, Spain

Palma is the city, and Mallorca is the island. (Mallorca is also the name of a popular Spanish Restaurant in Cleveland, but I digress.) It’s another island in the Mediterranean, this time part of Spain. Lady Adventurer chooses a panoramic tour that includes lunch and some nice sights, Dan chooses a hike to ‘Beautiful Banyalbufar.’

Debbie absolutely loves her tour of castles, especially Es Mirador de na Foradad, which serves her some great food and wine. 

 Mallorca

Dan thinks his ‘Hike to Beautiful Banyalbufar’ (he still can’t manage to say that out loud), is a highlight as well. Stony paths and trails, some alongside stone walls, are fantastic through the dry forested hills high above the sea. With only the guide and two other intrepid hikers, it’s a hike to remember.

Mallorca hike

Mallorca hike

Barcelona, Spain

We had forgotten how wonderful this beautiful city can be. Good thing we have a relaxing day to enjoy it. Close to the cruise terminal is the statue of Christopher Columbus that marks the beginning point of La Rambla, the main tourist drag through town. We walk for miles and enjoy the sights, sounds, and smells. Some of these include cathedrals and a lively food market.

About 500 of the approximately 600 passengers departed this morning, as the first half of our cruise concludes here. Now a bunch of new folks embark for the remaining portion. Among them are several Cruise Critic acquaintances that we now meet in person. We’re also now friends with a handful of the through-cruisers like ourselves. Now, it’s time to form a new team trivia team.

Barcelona!

Barcelona!

Barcelona - La Rambla

Alicante, Spain

Some people don’t like storms at sea, but… Oh, never mind. Yes, we skip yet another port due to bad weather. We are not too overly devastated.

Andalusian Villages, Spain

The good ship Sirena makes Motril its home port for the day. Nearby is Granada with its famous Alhambra palace. Also nearby is Malaga, another similar port. Having had the pleasure of visiting the Alhambra in the past, and exploring Malaga just a year and a half ago, we choose to visit a couple of Andalusian villages.

Motril, Granada, and Malaga are all part of Andalusia. The region also includes the justifiably famous Costa del Sol. The hilltop villages of Andalusia, we gather, are incredible as well. Nearly all of the buildings and homes are whitewashed, and many of the villages are perched up at the top of the hills that overlook the coast. We learn that they’re as quaint to walk through as they are to view from afar.

In fact, all of the surrounding scenery is great. We stop to walk through Colmenar, Alfarnete, and  Alfarnetejo (which we believe may mean ‘Alfarnete Heights’). We stop at an olive oil production facility and sample some of their product, and then have lunch at a local home. The lady of the house and her 94-year-old mother were gracious hosts, and they had a lovely home. The entire lunch was special, including the homemade chorizo.

 Alfarnetejo in Andalucia

lunch in Andalucia village

lunch in Andalucia village

Arrecife, Lanzarote Island, Canary Islands, Spain

It takes two days to sail through the Strait of Gibraltar and over to the Canary Islands. Did you know? There are no canaries in the Canary Islands. It's the same with the Virgin Islands. No canaries.

Lanzarote Island is our first port in the Canaries. We’d been aware that the Canary Islands were volcanic, but we had no idea they were ‘this’ volcanic. It appears that the entire island is parched and covered with relatively recent lava flows. The only things that grow here are planted palm trees, grapes (for wine), and various lichens. That’s it. It’s not unlike the Big Island of Hawaii but with even more lava and less actual soil. And like the Big Island, it’s all pretty awesome.

There are nine of us on this private tour. We cruise critics are all pretty familiar with each other now. We explore some caves associated with a huge lava tube – one artistically improved and the other one deep down under, in near darkness. Later, we make our way to Timanfaya National Park and the Fire Mountains. It’s somewhat similar to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, except (as I say) even more lava-y. It’s all pretty cool. Or should I say, hot?

 Lanzarote Island

Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Tenerife Island, Canary Islands, Spain

Our second Canary Island Port is Santa Cruz on the Island of Tenerife. Here, things are much different. Although there are volcanoes galore here as well (including one humongous one in the center of the island) everything is very green; much less stark. Tenerife is the largest of the Canaries, and it’s also probably the most visited. Small wonder; it’s pretty spectacular.

Tenerife has also suffered some devastating wildfires in recent weeks. They’re only now getting under control. We are not traveling to that part of the island (we’re going East, rather than North from the port), and we don’t see any fire damage. What we do see is wonderful scenery.

Tenerife Island

After a walking tour of the charming high town of La Laguna, a UNESCO world heritage site, we drive a spectacular winding mountain mountain road to the coastal village of Taganana (rhymes with banana, which they grow here). It’s all peachy. Or, should I say, banana-y. And the wine sample is pretty good as well.

Tenerife Island

Tenerife Island

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Gran Canaria Island, Canary Islands, Spain

Gran Canaria is our third and final Canary Islands stop. I will mention the name of our private tour director because he is truly the best: Sergiu Iacob of Epic Tours. To our group of five travelers, he talks a great deal about photography, but even the non-photographers learn a lot. 

Pico de Bandama, a stunning volcanic caldera, is our first stop. Here we experienced breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Next, it is on to Arucas, where we marvel at a magnificent church crafted entirely by hand from volcanic rock. We also briefly enjoy the charming and picturesque narrow streets of Arucas. Our third stop is Valle de Agaete, where we have the chance to visit a working coffee plantation. They grow all kinds of tropical fruit trees as well as the coffee trees, so the plantation tour is as interesting as the tasting. The final stop is at Puerto de Sardina, a quaint fisherman's harbor and beach that offers picturesque views of the ocean. 

Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria

Gran Canaria

Now, we sail towards Morocco. What is the best of the Canary Islands, you ask? I would say Tenerife, even though Gran Canaria was also quite grand.

Lady A. and Danny Boy (yours truly) both have some kind of sinus infection. I hasten to add that it’s not Covid-19; we test clean. We’re getting by by using Flonase, but our current health is less than optimal.

Tangier, Morocco

We have yet another fantastic small group (six people) tour here. This time it’s Ali of Ali Tours. Once again, I would highly recommend him.

We stop at several parks overlooking the sea. The city is beautiful and surprisingly green. The parks are great. Ali even buys us breakfast (not that we needed any more food, but this was a cultural experience) at one place perched on some rocks above the Strait of Gibraltar. As the morning fog lifts, we can eventually see the coast of Spain across the Strait. Unfortunately, we never get to spot the Rock of Gibraltar.

Tangier, Morocco (Ali, our guide)

We tour the Caves of Hercules and do a walking tour of the Kasbah, which is the ancient walled city fortress, now used for housing and shopping. We meet all kinds of people along the way. They’re mostly friends and acquaintances of Ali. And they’re all wonderfully friendly. Without exception, each person we meet in Morocco is warm and caring. They seem to love Americans best of all. What a great place. We will have to come back someday.

Tangier, Morocco

Tangier, Morocco

Tangier, Morocco

Lisbon, Portugal

It’s been a few years, but Lisbon is almost like a second home to me. Been here several times, most recently alongside the Lady Adventurer. The Sirena passes by much of the beautiful city as it approaches its berth. We have an afternoon to explore before tomorrow’s disembarkation.   

We follow our Cruise Critic friends Susie, Bob, Joe, and Carol up the hill to the castle. The way isn’t too steep, but it’s uphill all the way. And it’s all cobblestones, uneven ones at that. And it’s a little confusing. No problem, however. Susie has her google maps app going. We visit a historical museum, explore the castle, and mostly enjoy the spectacular views. What a great city. And a great way to end this trip.

Lisbon, Portugal

Goodbye to the good ship Sirena

Group Tours

A friend is considering traveling to Italy and asked for recommendations about group tours. I wrote something up and probably gave him more than he bargained for, But the information may help others as well. So here it is.

When we want to travel to a non-English-speaking country like Italy, we prefer to use group tours. There are all sorts of group tours out there, but we have used four: Cosmos, Globus (actually, these two are the same company), Trafalgar, and Gate1. They all go all over the world, and these four are slightly less expensive than some of the others. There are cheaper options as well.

 

With one of these kinds of tours, you get a detailed itinerary, a tour director (they’re usually very good), a bus and driver to take you from place to place, all lodging and baggage handling, Entry to attractions and sites, daily breakfasts, and a couple dinners. The expenses we’ve paid on top of the tour fee include air (although sometimes that can be part of the package), meals not covered, tips for side tours, tips for the driver and tour guide (often quite a lot), and other incidentals. 

 

We like Gate1 the most at this time. The others are absolutely fine, but we’ve had at least one bad experience on Globus and Trafalgar. Gate1 seems very customer-focused. If you’re still with me, you can sign up for regular email notifications from most tour operators. Occasionally you’ll find a pretty good price reduction for a place you want to go. 

 

For Gate1, you have to book a tour directly through their website or by phone. For the others, you’re much better off using a travel agency that provides discounts. For this reason, when we do something like this (except Gate1), or a cruise, we always use one: Pavlus Travel. Let me know if you plan to contact them. They give a referral check, and I’d split it with you. 

 

My biggest complaint, by far, with group tours is that you’re always on the go, packing and unpacking from hotel to hotel. We therefore look for tours with more 2 and 3-night stays, rather than just a bunch of 1-nighters. Also, if you want smaller groups, you’ll of course pay more.

 

2023 U.P.

The goal is Isle Royale, and it's our second attempt. This time, we're serious, and we really mean it. Keen readers and those who actually listen to our stories will be aware that the last time we tried this, it didn't quite go so swimmingly. 

Driving in a westerly direction takes us through Chicago, and we visit daughter Valerie and her husband Dan. In between the raindrops, we have lunch and see their new apartment. As we drive on into Wisconsin, the rain gets worse, but we manage to get up to Oshkosh for the night. We learn that Chicago had been hit by tornadoes just as we were getting out of town. Thank goodness for near misses.

Our next stop is Wakefield, Michigan. It's at the Western edge of the U.P., and it's where niece Jen and her husband Chris reside. They have a nice house there and we enjoy lunch on a nice day. We had, by the way, ordered the weather.

Finally, we arrive at Copper Harbor, Michigan. It's the tip-top of the Keweenaw peninsula of the U.P., as far North as you can go. But (after a night's rest where the expected aurora borealis did not appear) we're going even farther; we get on a ferry, the Isle Royale Queen.

Boarding the Isle Royale Queen

After three and a half hours on the boat, we set foot on Isle Royale at Rock Harbor. Us day-trippers only have about three hours on the island before re-boarding for the return trip. Other passengers will be backpacking, camping, or staying in the lodge. There is an orientation by the National Park Ranger, and then we're off on our hike.

Rock Harbor arrival

Stoll Trail

Stoll Trail

Isle Royale National Park is an archipelago of 200 islands. It's famous for its wildness, with its moose and wolf populations. The large main island has hiking trails galore. We are on one of the most popular, the Stoll trail. Popular here means that we may encounter one or two people per hour of hiking. There are probably more moose than people about. We spot the moose droppings, hoofprints, and discarded antlers, but no live specimens. The trail ends at Scoville Point, the tip of one of the peninsulas here.

The trail and surrounding scenery are wild and beautiful, just as I'd imagined. Lady Adventurer and I  enjoy the strange (to us) flowers and other flora as well as the views of Lake Superior's rocky shore. We remark about the absolute quiet and the clean, fresh air. Although the trail is considered moderate, the footing is bad at times and we are moving fairly slowly. And of course, we stop to admire the views and the flowers. 

At some point, we determine that at this rate, we cannot make it all the way to Scoville Point and back in time to catch our ride home. Lady A. decides to turn back early, just to ensure that she can get back to Rock Harbor in time. Determined to get to Scoville Point, I soldier on. I scoot, walk, and run, but mostly shuffle my way on the rocky and sometimes difficult trail. I spot a bald eagle, a snake, plenty more moose droppings and hoofprints, and (of course) flies and mosquitos. At two and a quarter miles out, I manage to get to the point before quickly turning back. I have to shuffle quickly in order to make it.

Found along the trail upon returning from Scoville Point

Lady A. is sitting at a table waiting for my return. We are in good time, so we don't miss the boat. It had been a great and memorable hike.

The three hour, forty-five minute trip back is a little uncomfortable, but the sea is calm. As we get back to Copper Harbor, we notice that due to the haziness, the sun is just a bright spot in the nighttime. It's not really so bad just yet, but what's happening is that the Canadian wildfire smoke is beginning to move back in. Of course, that's not good, but at least we were able to enjoy Isle Royale before it got here.

The smokey trip home takes us across and through Michigan's Upper and Lower Peninsulas. Looking back, we were so very fortunate to get through Chicago ahead of the tornadoes, and to Isle Royale ahead of the smoke. What a nice little road trip.

Some of the unique flowers we saw:

2023 Niagara Falls

Lady Adventurer and I brought the Grandkids to Niagara Falls for a few days. We did a lot of the usual stuff, and guess what? It was fun!

This was in spite of the poor air quality due to Canadian wildfires far to the North and East.

To take it all in, we took Maid the Mist from the American Side, and it was just as we remembered it 49 years ago. Afterward, we hiked partway up the side of the American Falls. Once on the Canadian side, we did even more of the touristy stuff: Two rounds of miniature golf, lots of eating poor-quality food, and miles of walking. Even before coming home, we did a great but difficult hike at Niagara Glen, which is North of the Falls.

I'll go as far as to say that we all had a good time.